The Grand Palace of Bangkok
If there is one thing you go to in Bangkok, it should be the Grand Palace. Built in 1782, this former royal residence is not used by the King except for ceremonial occasions a few times a year. Though before you go, remember to put on pants. No matter how hot, sticky and humid it is, the western style of wearing shorts in public is not acceptable in the temples, monasteries or the Grand Palace. Unless, of course, you're a rabbit.
Not to worry though, since the Thai are a very accepting and understanding bunch, and have conveniently located a place to rent long pants and skirts right by the front gate. So, once my travelling companions were suitably attired, we entered on the tour, booking a local freelancer who was capitalizing on his knowledge of English to give us a walking tour of the palace grounds.
Once inside the main gates, one is greeted with a dizzying array of gold and gemstones, gaudy perhaps, but beautiful nonetheless. Throughout demons boldly guard against evil spirits, while the central temple, Wat Phra Si Ratana Satsadaram, houses the Emerald Buddha, which protects the entirety of Thailand, and is said to be the reason that Thailand has never been colonized by Western powers. Actually made of jade, the statute is held high on a pedestal in the center of the temple, and only touched three times a year when the King changes the Buddha's robes. You must remove your shoes to enter the temple, and photography is prohibited. Our guide stayed outside, since it is improper to make a profit on the Emerald Buddha.
Around the corner, you can go to the Audience Hall of Amarinda, used for the coronation ceremonies. The King would rise from the octagonal seat where he receives the people's invitation to rule, and take his seat on the coronation throne, surmounted by a canopy of nine tiers of white cloth.
Next door you can see the royal elephant mounting stand, where the monarch could easily step aboard. Just down the way is a more European building, called the Chakri Mahaprasat, which is basically a Italian renaissance building capped by a traditional Thai roof, and Borobimian Hall, the former residence of Rama IV.
Perhaps the most fascinating thing that arose from our tour of the Palace was the deeply felt reverence that the Thai hold for their King. While they may hold harsh, even critical views of the political leadership, the royal court is held with the deepest esteem. It's not only against the law to criticize the monarchy, but a terrible social faux pas. It is said that two of the coups of the 1980's failed once they received tacit royal disapproval.
