oon there are no trails, and we struggle to lug our bikes on a straight-line course back to civilization. The route is treacherous and bloody, and as we climb the 'wild side' of the sand dune, we recall how earlier we laughed about the foolishness of going down there. I'm not sure about the run down the tame side. Exciting, but a bit slow, and definitely bad for the bike. Crossing Jim Creek on the way back provides welcome relief to our burning legs. We make camp next to a pair shooting rifles into and across the river, eat dinner and watch the sun set. And as time wears on, Thunderdome comes to life. More vehicles pass our camp at higher speeds, the music gets louder, more people are shooting guns not at targets but into the air — more fun in general is being had. Sleeping outside is a viable option but for the risk of getting run over. I do it anyway, falling asleep to the sound of gunshots. They're going up into the air and bound to come down somewhere nearby. Covering my face won't help; being in a tent won't help. I shrug mentally as I fall asleep. Danger lurks everywhere on a bike trip — it's part of the fun. Drunk drivers and falling bullets are a fine complement to the risk of breaking your neck in a fall. And if you do break your neck or get shot, at least you know there's someone with a really cool truck available to extricate you.

I'm hooked! How do I get there? Jim Creek flows into the Knik River Valley, across the river from Hunter Creek, just a couple miles down Old Glenn Hwy. A popular destination for locals in heavy 4x4 vehicles and ATV's, we ventured out with four bikes, the VW bus and a late model Honda Civic Wagon. It's easy to find. Fly to Anchorage, Alaska, and rent a car. Don't use your real name. Most rental agencies will sport you a local map, so take a look around for the Parks Hwy. Then, just take the Parks Hwy towards Palmer, cross the Knik River, exit right after that at the Old Glenn Hwy, and continue a couple miles up the road. Turn right on Plumlee Rd., go to the end of Plumlee and take another right. Now you're in the dirt. If your car is up for the drive, you can ride the riverbed all the way to Knik Glacier, clearly visible in the distance if the dust clears enough to permit the view. Or if your car sucks, venture out on bikes. Better yet, just crack a few beers and start shootin'.